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We went to IndiaWhilst not as profound as "I had a farm in Africa ", I must say, I never ever wanted to visit poverty and misery. As such, I resisted Margot's adventurous spirit vigorously. What a big mistake. India is stupenduos, vast, different, diverse and culturally exceptionally advanced. Steeped in many religions which dictate daily life to the nth. degree. We (read Margot) had done a fair amount of internet research, so were not overly surprised at much of normal life in India, but we were very taken aback by the sheer number of people and size of the sub- continent.
Firstly, did you know India comprises of 21 states and 7 self governing territories? Or, depending on which publication one reads, 27 states and 5 self governing union territories. (Lonely Planet were forced to withdraw their latest edition on India as the government objected to the maps published and recognition of the divide in Kashmir.) India is also exceptionally complex in its politics.
Delhi was our start point. The second-largest city in India, with a population of almost 22 million and located in northern India on the banks of the River Yamuna, Delhi has the political status of a federally-administered union territory known as the National Capital Territory of Delhi. Our visit took us to many familiar buildings as Sir Herbert Baker was one of the chief architects together with a Mr. Luytjens. As far as its origins are concerned Delhi has been occupied from before 700BC. Suffice to say that its history is as rich and diverse as its peoples.
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| Delhi, Chandni Chowk market, note the electrical supply | The Jama Masjid Mosque at Delhi |
We took a ricksha ride in the Chandni Chowk whose speciality is the variety of its markets and their Indian-ness. From authentic Indian food, delicacies and sweets (do not eat), to sarees. There are lots of narrow lanes with many shops selling books, clothing, shoes and leather goods, electronic and consumer goods and what not. The area, even more so than the rest of the city, is congested to say the least! Note the interesting elctrical wiring system in place!
After a day in Delhi we departed for the more rural atmosphere of a Tea plantation or garden in the north east state of West Bengal. A 3 hour flight deposited us in the humid heat of Bagdograh. Our host from Pahargoomiah tea garden had sent his IT Manager to meet us and Peter was great. He had organised two taxis to transport the 7 of us to the garden. It was short drive to Siliguri and then on to the Estate my sister in law grew up on. Mr Chattergee, the GM of the garden welcomed us and our bottle of whisky, which we proceded to demolish that evening. The staff were charming, mostly of Nepalese descent and a trip around the estate most interesting. Having weathered a devastating strike last year, the estate is in major decline and it is unlikely the Communist dominated state of West Bengal will see a resurgance of tea planting in the near future
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| Tea pickers in Siliguri | Our welcome to Pahargoomiah Tea Garden |
Four days later saw us leaving the plains for the more hilly Darjeeling where the Planters Club welcomed us. We met the other members of our group and settled into the cooler climate and coal fire heated rooms of the old colonial hill station. Next morning we took a ride in the "toy train "down to Ghoom, after I had a broken tooth extracted, (and that is another story.)
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| Darjeeling main road and railway | Breakfast at Planters Club |
Darjeeling hangs on the side of an almost impossible slope. There are very few private vehicles and the taxis are in a pretty unkempt roadworthy condition. How there are so few accidents is a reflection of driving ability. The horn is a vital communication and cell phones are glued to the driver's ears.
Morning views of the Himalayas were breathtaking. A visit to Hilary and Tensing's start point for Everest, a must, together with the Tibetan refugee craft centre
At last off to Karmi farm and Sandakphu. Three days at the farm acclimatising and getting used to hiking resulted in 3 of the team withdrawing from the big hike. Another night in a Sherpa hut after a gruelling climb saw a further 5 drop out. That left Margot, me and two Brits for the big one. We all made it to the top. Margot put up her prayer flags on the highest point for our dear friend Dawn and admired the view. What a view! Sandakphu (3636 m) is the highest peak in the state of West Bengal, is situated at the edge of the Singalila National Park on the West Bengal - Sikkim border, and is the highest point of the Singalila Ridge. Sandakphu has a small village on the peak with a number of hostels. The place is famous for its lovely sunrises and sunsets and also a haven for trekking. Sandakphu offers great views of Mt Kanchendzonga and Mt Everest
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| Kanchendzonga from Sandakphu | Margot and guide, Andrew on the way to Sandakphu |
The hike back was just as hard and it was with relief we finally made it to our transport. Andrew, our guide advised that as there was a transport strike in West Bengal the following morning we would have to hike a further 4 hours to the Sikkim border. Fortunately the strike was postponed and we boarded taxis to Peling in Sikkim. Our visas for Sikkim were a mission to obtain and if this "Union Territory" is serious about tourism,it needs a major revision.
From Sikkim, it was back to Delhi in time to celebrate Diwali. The Indians know all about celebrating, the fireworks kept us awake till about midnight. The following morning it was off to Aggra and the Taj Mahal, all 11 of us in a 42 seater airconditioned bus.Together with AJ our guide , a bus "conductor" (Little did we realise the vital role he would play) and Driver. This was a breathtaking experience
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| Harem in Jaipur | Taj Mahal in all its glory |
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| Ranthambore Tiger Reserve, yes we did see tiger, | |
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| Worshipers in the Ranthambore reserve leave | Camel power rules their shoes to pay penance |
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| The Fort in Jaipur an amazing experience, elephant ride to the top . | |
What did we not like about India? Hotels vary in service levels, hot water tends to be a difficulty. The fact that hygiene is a major problem, drinking water is at a premium. Do not eat the salads as they are washed in the local water. Brushing teeth in bottled water. The poverty, little children as well as adult beggars. Tips! Well, take double the money you are intending to, as tips are the major expense, everyone expects to be tipped, even the public toilet attendants. Do not take a serviette or paper towel from anyone; they expect to be paid handsomely. The vendors are also quite persistent and making eye contact is a basic and costly error. Watch out for pick pockets at the Taj!
Would we go back? You bet. Suneel, our travel agent, his guide RJ and team did us proud.
So, the four weeks went by rather rapidly. Want to know more? Go to http://www.avisittoindia.com/
Nick and Margot Penstone December 2007
